Monday 31 July 2017

All Things Bayeux

First experiences so often stay etched on the mind and this is so true of my first school hand embroidery.  The Bayeux Tapestry was the inspiration chosen by my then junior school teacher, Miss Deddon, and while it has felt familiar ever since, it is only this year that I have seen the tapestry first hand.  Located in the pretty Normandy city of Bayeux, the magnificent 80m panel recounts the gory tale of the Norman conquest.  The word 'tapestry' is misleading, as the panel is an embroidery stitched with woollen yarns on linen.  Many believe that the design was of English origin and some say that the Bayeux Embroidery was the first ever 'cartoon'.


On visiting the Musee de la Tapisserie de Bayeux, I became one of around 400,000 visitors they receive every year.  The panel is housed in a glass cased gallery on the ground floor and this seemed the sensible place to head first.  An audio guide is the only information available for the gallery viewing, however, I opted to walk quietly along and to feast my eyes.  I was immediately struck by the length of the panel and the amount of time it must have taken to stitch.  Studying intently as I could in low level protective light, I wondered about the lives of those who had taken part in its creation.


I found insight to this and much more on the first and second floor of the museum, where there was extensive exhibits explaining what is known about the construction of the panel and the story it depicts.  It is quite incredible that the panel has survived nearly 10 centuries and that the linen and stitch work are still in such good condition.  A particular style of stitch was used throughout the panel - now known as the Bayeux stitch. In brief, the subject is outlined first with a stem stitch and then the long stitches used to fill the space are anchored down by small couching stitches. 


The dabbler that I am, I purchased a simple 'how to' book and I was delighted to find Bayeux Brioderie around the corner from the museum and meet the talented and friendly author.  Chantal James has developed designs in the style of the Bayeux Tapestry over many years and runs small workshops to teach the traditional stitches.  Oh that my schoolgirl French had been a little more practiced and I would have joined a workshop in a flash!


The Bayeux Tapestry has undoubtedly shaped its home city and inspiration can be found in all kinds of unexpected places.  Spending much time watching my step on the charming Bayeux cobbled streets, I saw this tapestry tree design set into the pavements many times!


Like its famous exhibit, Bayeux itself has survived the centuries remarkably unscathed and there is much to taken in admire in its pretty streets - such as its the oldest house at the corner of 'Rue des Cuisiniers'- perhaps there had been a 'Rue des Brodeuses' too!


The pretty river Aure runs through the middle of Bayeux and makes for relaxing strolls and stunning photographs - any of which could provide tremendous stitching inspiration.


There are also lots of pretty shops selling all things tapestry and Boutique Coquelicots made for a very pleasant shopping experience.  Red flowers, real and representational, are everywhere you look in Bayeux, and Normandy as a whole, and are a constant and most important reminder of the sacrifices made by so many in 20th century wars.


I highly recommend a visit to Bayeux - one of the prettiest cities I have ever visited and made all the more enjoyable by the friendly locals.  I returned home with my head full of creative ideas and with embroidery and poppies foremost in my mind, I very much enjoyed designing this free stitched applique cushion to make at my summer workshops and beyond.





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